Seventeen countries in the world have been identified as “megadiverse,” and Colombia is one of them. And honestly, some of its inhabitants sound like characters from a fairytale. Golden poison frog, red-crested tree rat, Colombian mountain grackle…there really is an astonishing assortment of fantastical species for the inquisitive traveller to discover.
The snow-peaked cordilleras of the Andes soar high with their myriad high-altitude ecosystems, including deserts, cloud forests, wetlands and páramos – alpine tundras found only in the Andes mountains above a certain altitude. In the western part of the country, at the foothills of the western and central cordillera, the Coffee Triangle (Zona Cafetera) is exquisitely verdant with its fertile, rolling valleys and evergreen hills.
It is also the only country in South America with both Atlantic and Pacific coastlines – the Caribbean Sea in the far north between Panama and Venezuela – home to the colourful, historic city of Cartagena.
As diverse as Colombia is scenically, so is it culturally. Spanish influence is prevalent, dating back to the 16th century and the start of a 300-year colonial era. The enormous Amazonia region is home to indigenous communities that live deep inside its jungles, and African influence is deeply ingrained in the music, food, and traditions that arrived with the Atlantic Slave Trade.
So, how best to experience the highlights of Colombia?
Bogota
Colombia’s high-altitude capital (8,660 feet above sea level) is one of South America’s most vibrant, varied and interesting cities. Perhaps even the world at this point, in our opinion. Its appeal is partly that it still feels relatively emerging when compared to neighbouring capitals – time permitting, we’d dedicate five nights alone to its amazing restaurants, contemporary art, the juxtaposition of colonial architecture and modern design, and a cityscape that, in parts is very picturesque against the mountainous backdrop of the Andes. Those who thrive with the energy of city life will love it here, with its edginess, cool vibe, and urban fabric utterly unique to Colombia. You’ll most likely be staying in the affluent district of Chapinero, known for its dynamic restaurant scene and home to the city’s top hotels.
Barichara
One of Colombia’s prettiest and most exquisitely-preserved heritage towns, Barichara is hypnotic with its beautiful views of the surrounding hills and Suarez River Canyon and peaceful cobblestone streets with their white-washed houses and pastel-coloured shutters. An hour’s flight from Bogota, one could easily spend five nights alone here, reading, relaxing and adapting to a gentler pace of life, but for those short on time, three nights is an absolute minimum. A short one-hour hop from Bogota, we were delighted to discover an outstanding restaurant, as good as anything in South America.
Cartagena
On the Caribbean coast, its steamingly humid climate a complete departure from the crisp high-altitude temperatures of Bogota, Cartagena is Colombia’s most flocked-to colonial city. Yet, perhaps controversially, we didn’t find it immediately likeable. Like many of the world’s hyped-up destinations, it really needs careful planning and the right advice to avoid the tourist traps and benefit from the city’s charms. Here, you’re stepping head-first into a crowded coastal city, extremely well-acclimatised to tourism. It takes some effort to avoid the hustle! Expect to be accosted by street sellers, tuk-tuks and people offering horse-and-carriage rides. Yet, with a beautiful private house in the right old-city location, a great chef, and advice on the best times of day to stay home and avoid the crowds, Cartagena is also a fun, charming and historic city, with plenty of vibrant colours and some incredible music.
We’ve touched on a few key areas to explore within Colombia. Those with more time will undoubtedly want to explore the exquisite Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the coffee triangle, city of Medellin, and even the Colombian Amazon on the border with Brazil and Peru.
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